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How to choose the right shell jacket

Guide

How to choose the right shell jacket

Jobb og Fritid-redaksjonen25 May 20269 min read

A good shell jacket is often the most important investment in your wardrobe – but what separates a great jacket from an expensive one? We take you through everything you need to know about materials, waterproofing, breathability and fit before you buy.

A good shell jacket is perhaps the most important garment in your wardrobe when you live in Northern Norway. It needs to protect you against rain, sleet, snow and wind – while letting moisture and sweat escape when you are active. But prices range from a few hundred kroner to well over ten thousand, and it can be difficult to know what you are actually paying for. In this guide we take you through everything you need to consider before buying a shell jacket, so that you find the right jacket at the right price.

What is a shell jacket?

A shell jacket is the outermost layer of your clothing system – designed to keep weather and wind out, while allowing moisture and sweat to escape from within. A shell jacket normally has no insulation of its own, and should be combined with a good mid-layer and base layer. We recommend reading our guide to layering to understand how the shell jacket fits into your clothing system.

Hardshell, softshell or windshell?

The first thing you need to decide is which type of shell you require. The three main types each have their own strengths.

Hardshell is fully waterproof and windproof, most often featuring a membrane such as Gore-Tex or equivalent. This is the jacket you want when the weather really closes in – driving rain, sleet, strong winds or snowfall. The material is somewhat stiffer than softshell, but modern hardshell jackets are surprisingly comfortable and flexible.

Softshell is more flexible and breathable, but not quite as waterproof. Softshell handles light rain and wind, and works well for active use in dry or lightly wet conditions – for example ski tours, climbing or jogging in cool weather. Softshell is more comfortable against the skin, but cannot replace a hardshell in genuinely bad weather.

Windshell is the lightest option, intended for light wind and cool weather without rain. Many windshells pack down to the size of a fist and are handy to carry in your rucksack as an extra layer.

For North Norwegian conditions, a hardshell is often the right choice if you are only going to have one shell jacket. It covers more situations and handles the truly bad weather you encounter up here.

Waterproofing – what do the numbers mean?

Waterproofing is measured in millimetres of water column (mm). The figure indicates how much water pressure the fabric can withstand before it starts to leak.

  • 5,000 mm: Handles light rain and snow. Fine for everyday use in town, but not sufficient for the mountains.
  • 10,000 mm: Handles proper rain over shorter periods. Fine for shorter trips and commuting.
  • 15,000–20,000 mm: Handles heavy rain over longer periods. Recommended for mountain hikes and daily use in harsh weather.
  • 20,000–28,000 mm: Extremely waterproof. For demanding trips, expeditions and professional use.

For North Norwegian weather we recommend a minimum of 15,000 mm if you spend a lot of time outdoors. If you are going hiking in the mountains or working outside all day, 20,000 mm or more is a sound investment.

Breathability – just as important as waterproofing

A jacket can be completely waterproof, but if it does not let sweat escape, you will end up just as wet on the inside as you would have been on the outside. Breathability is most commonly measured as MVTR (Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate) – how much moisture the jacket lets through per square metre over 24 hours.

  • 5,000 g/m²/24h: Low breathability. Fine for sedentary use.
  • 10,000–15,000 g/m²/24h: Good breathability. Suitable for normal hikes and everyday use.
  • 20,000+ g/m²/24h: Very good breathability. For intense activity and demanding use.

The most important thing is that waterproofing and breathability are reasonably balanced. A jacket with 28,000 mm waterproofing but only 5,000 g/m² breathability will quickly feel clammy during active use.

Membranes explained

The waterproof and breathable material inside the jacket is called the membrane. Here are the membranes you will find in our range:

Gore-Tex is the best-known and most widely used membrane in the world. Used by, among others, Arc'teryx, Norrøna, Fjällräven, Klättermusen and Helly Hansen. Gore-Tex comes in several variants:

  • Gore-Tex Paclite Plus: Light and packable, for short trips and commuting
  • Gore-Tex Performance (2L/3L): Robust and breathable, for everyday use and the mountains
  • Gore-Tex Pro: The most durable and breathable, for extreme and professional use
  • Gore-Tex Active: Optimised for high activity levels with extra good breathability
  • Gore-Tex ePE: Gore's new, more environmentally friendly membrane without PFAS

Helly Tech (Helly Hansen) is Helly Hansen's own membrane technology, developed for Nordic climates. Available in three levels:

  • Helly Tech Protection: For everyday use and lighter hiking
  • Helly Tech Performance: A good balance between waterproofing and breathability
  • Helly Tech Professional: Helly Hansen's most advanced – used in professional garments and mountain wear

H2No (Patagonia) is Patagonia's own membrane with solid waterproofing and breathability. Used across everything from everyday jackets to expedition garments, and is known for good durability and high environmental standards in production.

Eco Shell (Fjällräven) is Fjällräven's own membrane, made from recycled materials and free from harmful PFC substances. Used on several models alongside Gore-Tex, and is a good choice if sustainability is important to you.

Don't be misled by the name alone: What matters most is the stated waterproofing and breathability – and how many layers the jacket has (2L, 2.5L or 3L). A good proprietary membrane can be just as good as – or better than – a basic Gore-Tex.

Number of layers – 2L, 2.5L or 3L?

You will often see jackets described as 2-layer, 2.5-layer or 3-layer. This refers to how the jacket is constructed.

2-layer (2L): Outer fabric with membrane bonded to it, and a separate lining on the inside. Comfortable and affordable, but heavier and less packable. Best for everyday use.

2.5-layer (2.5L): Outer fabric with membrane and a thin protective print on the inside instead of a lining. Light and packable, but can feel slightly clammy and is less resistant to wear. Best for commuting and light hiking.

3-layer (3L): Outer fabric, membrane and inner fabric are sewn together as a single layer. Light, durable and breathable – but more expensive. Best for mountain use and demanding conditions.

What to look for in a good shell jacket

Beyond waterproofing and breathability, there are several details that separate a good shell jacket from a mediocre one:

  • Sealed seams: All seams must be sealed (taped seams) to prevent leakage.
  • Adjustable hood: Preferably with a stiff peak and the ability to adjust at multiple points. Should be able to be tightened with one hand.
  • Helmet-compatible hood: If you plan to use the jacket for climbing, skiing or cycling.
  • Ventilation zips: Zips under the arms (pit-zips) allow you to release heat and moisture quickly.
  • Waterproof zips: The main zip should be waterproof or covered by a storm flap.
  • Adjustable cuffs: Velcro or a button to seal around the wrist.
  • Adjustable hem: To prevent cold air from getting in.
  • Correctly positioned pockets: Chest pockets are useful – make sure they work with a rucksack or harness.
  • Robust outer fabric: A higher denier count (D) means thicker and more hard-wearing fabric. 40D is standard for hiking, 70D+ for heavy use.

Fit and sizing

A shell jacket should be roomy enough to accommodate a mid-layer (fleece or down jacket) underneath, but not so large that it lets cold air in. Check these points when trying it on:

  • Freedom of movement: Stretch your arms above your head – the jacket should not ride up over your stomach.
  • Length: Should cover your backside, especially if you are cycling or wearing a harness.
  • Sleeve length: The sleeves should cover your wrists even when your arms are stretched forward.
  • Shoulders: Should sit comfortably without pinching.

If you are between two sizes, we generally recommend choosing the larger one – it gives more room for layering underneath.

What should you pay?

Prices vary considerably, but here is a rough guide:

  • 1,500–3,000 kr: Basic shell jacket for everyday use and light hiking. Lower waterproofing and simpler features.
  • 3,000–5,000 kr: Good all-round jacket for hiking and daily use. Solid waterproofing and breathability.
  • 5,000–8,000 kr: Quality jacket for demanding use. Premium membrane, good features and a long service life.
  • 8,000 kr+: Top-of-the-range models for expeditions and professional use. Maximum performance and durability.

A good shell jacket is an investment. Take care of it and a jacket costing 5,000 kr can easily last 10 years – that works out at 500 kr a year for dry comfort in all kinds of weather.

Maintenance – how to extend the life of your jacket

A shell jacket does not stay waterproof on its own. The outer DWR (Durable Water Repellent) treatment wears down over time, and water begins to soak into the fabric instead of beading off. Here is how to look after your jacket:

  • Wash regularly: Dirt and sweat clog the pores in the membrane. Use a specialist detergent for technical garments (e.g. Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers).
  • Re-waterproof: After several washes, the DWR coating needs to be renewed. Use a reproofing agent and follow the instructions.
  • Tumble-dry on low heat: The heat reactivates the DWR coating.
  • Avoid fabric softener and ordinary washing powder: These damage the membrane.
  • Hang on a good coat hanger: Never fold for long periods.

Common mistakes when buying a shell jacket

Mistake 1: Focusing only on waterproofing Breathability is equally important. A jacket that does not breathe will make you wet from the inside.

Mistake 2: Too tight a fit Remember that the jacket needs room for layering underneath. Always try it on with a fleece or thin down jacket underneath.

Mistake 3: Overlooking the hood A hood without adjustment or a stiff peak performs poorly in wind and rain. Always test the hood before buying.

Mistake 4: Choosing too cheap Shell jackets under 1,500 kr often have such low waterproofing and breathability that they disappoint in use. In that case, it is better to save a little more and buy something that actually works.

Mistake 5: Neglecting maintenance Even the most expensive jacket loses its waterproofing without washing and reproofing. Set aside time for maintenance a couple of times a year.

How to choose the right shell jacket – a brief summary

Ask yourself before you buy:

  1. What will I use the jacket for? Everyday wear, hiking, mountains, work or a specific activity?
  2. How much time do I spend outdoors? Daily use demands better quality than weekend use.
  3. What weather do I most often encounter? Heavy rain requires higher waterproofing; active use requires better breathability.
  4. What is my budget? Allow enough for a jacket that actually works.
  5. What features do I need? Helmet-compatible hood? Ventilation? Long sleeves for climbing?

Do you need help choosing?

Come into one of our shops in Tromsø and we will help you find the right jacket for your needs. We stock a wide range from brands including Arc'teryx, Helly Hansen, Norrøna, Patagonia, Klättermusen and Fjällräven – and we have extensive experience of what actually works in the climate of northern Norway.